What is rock climbing?
How many calories does rock climbing
burn?
Advantages
Disadvantages
Who should participate?
Learning to climb
Rock climbing guidelines
Rock climbing gear
Glossary of terms
For a rock climber, reaching the top is not the
point. Like rearing children or praying, it is the journey that
matters most if you are climbing for fitness.
Whether their
journey lasts 2 hours or 2 days, rock climbers can benefit
from a mental workout as well as a physical one, according to
competitive climber Michelle Hurni, president of the
Colorado-based American Sport Climbers Federation (ASCF).
Physically, rock climbing burns fat while strengthening muscles
if pursued at a vigorous pace. Mentally, rock climbers exercise
their ability to focus fully on a single task- an increasingly rare occurrence in this age of
multitasking. Climbers also get practice confronting their
fears- the fear of heights, the
fear of falling, the fear of equipment failure. Ultimately, the
sport can improve your self-confidence- if you learn how to climb safely, that is.
What is rock climbing?
Until recent years, scaling cliffs and huge mountain peaks was
considered the most legitimate form of climbing, and shorter
routes were considered practice for these longer endeavors,
according to Rock and Groove Online Climbing Magazine. More
recently, indoor climbing on artificial walls, shorter outdoor
climbing routes, and competitive, or sport climbing have gained
popularity. Over the last 10 years, writes David Humphries, MD,
in a 1998 article for Medscape Orthopaedics and Sports Medicine,
"rock climbing has grown from a pursuit engaged in by only a
hardy few, to a relatively mainstream adventure activity."
According to the ASCF, there is an estimated 1 million rock
climbers in the United States today.
Increasing numbers of people are introducing themselves to
rock climbing in indoor climbing facilities, or rock gyms. The
number of rock gyms in this country has soared to 700 from only
about three 15 years ago, Hurni says. Located in schools,
universities, as well as in commercial facilities, rock gyms
provide climbing walls of varying difficulty levels equipped with
movable holds, ropes, and pulleys. Reputable rock gyms provide
expert instruction and rent climbing shoes, harnesses and other
equipment you will need to climb safely.
Many basic climbing skills mastered in a rock gym can be
transferred to outdoor climbing-
a more exciting, albeit more dangerous, pursuit. "Bouldering," or
climbing boulders, is probably the simplest and safest form of
outdoor rock climbing since boulders are low to the ground and
can be climbed without ropes or other gear. Sport climbing
involves rope and other safety gear but is associated with
shorter, safer routes and more difficult athletic movements,
according to Rock and Groove magazine.
Traditional "trad" climbing on big rock faces, such as El
Capitan in Yosemite, emphasizes the use of holds and various
protection devices inserted into cracks as the climber ascends.
Because these devices take some skill and effort to place
correctly, trad climbing moves are slower and less powerful, compared
with sport-climbing moves. "Free climbing" uses natural rock
features to climb with ropes and other devices to protect against
falls.
How
many calories will rock climbing burn?
Ascending a natural or artificial rock wall burns up to 700
calories an hour if you weigh 140 pounds, or up to 974 calories
an hour if you weigh 190 pounds. Rock-climbing sessions tend to
last at least 2 or 3 hours.
Advantages
In addition to offering an aerobic workout, rock climbing
exercises almost every muscle group, according to Hurni of the
ASCF. Rock climbing two or more times a week improves your
strength, endurance, flexibility and mental toughness.
Disadvantages
Rock climbing, particularly the outdoor version, is inherently
dangerous and potentially fatal. It is beyond foolhardy for a
beginner or even an intermediate rock climber to pursue the
activity without sufficient instruction and hands-on guidance
from a qualified instructor or a more experienced climber. Even
experienced climbers should work in pairs.
Surveys have found that 75% of climbers sustained some
form of injury during their climbing careers. The injury risk
seems more closely tied to how long a person has been climbing,
as opposed to experience levels or degree of difficulty of climbs
performed, the researchers concluded.
Most rock-climbing injuries involve the hands and arms. Common
overuse problems reported by climbers include spinal syndromes,
tendonitis of the forearm and shoulder, carpal tunnel syndrome,
and finger strains, Humphries' Medscape article states. Another
frequently reported problem, especially among older climbers, is
a spinal syndrome known as "belayer's neck." The belayer, or
person feeding the rope out to the lead climber, is responsible
for stopping the lead person's fall by means of friction devices
attached to the rope. "This necessitates long periods of direct
upward gaze, as the belayer usually positions himself underneath
the lead climber," Humphries explains. This prolonged
posturing commonly triggers neck ache and headache.
Hurni knows of no deaths associated with indoor climbing and
says that deaths associated with outdoor climbing usually stemmed
from equipment failure or human error. Rock gyms are designed so
that the falling distance is much shorter than you would
encounter in most natural rock-climbing settings. However, the
more difficult climbs and maneuvers that can be performed
repetitively indoors place a "significant strain on soft
tissues- greater than what would
be found in outdoor climbing," Humphries writes.
Who should participate?
Hurni of the American Sport Climbers Federation says she has
seen "every body type" try climbing and has also seen "lots and
lots" of recreational climbers lose weight. "If you're out of
shape, you can still try it in the gym first," she adds.
According to Humphries, good strength and low body weight
appears advantageous for elite-level climbing.
People wishing to condition themselves to tackle challenging
outdoor climbing courses should make sure their training sessions
in the climbing gym involve speed work, power work, and stamina
training, Humphries recommends.
Learning to climb
Rock climbing, even in the controlled environment of a gym,
should never be attempted without expert instruction. Your
introductory lesson will include basic safety rules. They are how to tie yourself into your harness and how to belay (the act of taking up slack in the rope as the climber ahead of you ascends, so the climber will fall
just a couple of inches in case he or she loses a grip). You are also taught holds, various climbing maneuvers, and how to tie basic knots, such as the figure-8 knot. Be sure to practice what you have learned
under the watchful eyes of a qualified instructor. The number of
beginner lessons you'll need depends on your aptitude for
knot-tying, your fitness level, and other factors.
Outdoor climbs are best tackled through a reputable climbing
school, rock gym, or guide company.
Before making the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing,
climbers need to learn resting positions, how to place protection
devices in rocks, and other skills. Before making your first
outdoor climb, Humphries advises you to master a system of belay
(safety point) placement called SERENE (Secure, Equalized,
Redundant, No Extension). "This is a well-accepted,
engineering-based system to enable maximum protection under all
circumstances of climbing," he writes.
Rock climbing guidelines
-
Always climb with a qualified instructor or climber who is
much more experienced than you are.
-
Always wear a harness that fits you properly. Various types of
harnesses are available. Try on several until you find one that is
snug, but not too tight.
-
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for keeping all your
gear in top condition.
-
Don't expect your harness to last indefinitely. Weekend
climbers can expect a new harness to last about 2 years. The
more you fall, the faster your harness will wear out. Replace
your harness whenever it shows signs of wear or damage.
-
Replace your ropes after any hard fall, or if it develops flat
or soft spots, becomes stiff, or shows other signs of wear and
tear.
-
Don't use your climbing rope for anything other than
climbing.
-
In general, the longer and more vertical your course, the
higher your risk for injuries.
-
Lower your risk for belayer's neck by rotating belayers
regularly and doing flexibility exercises between climbs.
-
To avoid dehydration, drink plenty of water before, during,
and after your climbing sessions, especially if you are climbing
outdoors in a hot or arid climate.
Rock climbing
gear
According to Hurni, a basic set of gear costs about $200, half
of which goes to climbing shoes.
The basic equipment consists of:
-
Rock shoes, which protect your feet as well as grab, hold, and
interact with rock. Different shoes are available for different
climbing conditions.
-
Carabiners, or lightweight, metal snapping links that are used
for a wide variety of climbing tasks. Your instructor can tell
you which style will best suit your needs.
-
A hardness that will accommodate your body shape and climbing
style.
-
Rope specifically designed for climbing.
Glossary of terms
Anchor: point where the rope is fixed to the rock
Belay: to secure a climber who is above you
Belayer: the person at the belay station securing the
climber.
Boulder: climbing without being roped on boulders or at the foot of
climbs to a height where it is still safe to jump off
Buttress: part of the mountain or rock that stands in
front of the main mountain face
Chalk: powder that makes the hands stick to smooth
rock
Clove hitch: a useful, easily adjustable climbing
knot
Crag: small climbing area.
Feet: footholds
Handle: big banana-shaped hold often found in rock
gyms
Harness: a piece of clothing worn around the torso, where various climbing equipment is attached
Hold: anything that can be held onto
Pocket: a hold formed by a (small) depression in the
rock
Rack: gear carried during an ascent
Rappel: descending by sliding down a rope
Rating: number denoting the technical difficulty of a
climb
Scrambling: easy climbing, without being roped
Slack: word yelled when the climber needs more rope
Sport climbing: competitive climbing
Tick marks: chalk marks used to locate holds when
bouldering
Top-rope: free climbing a route that has a safety rope
attached to the top of the climb
Traverse: climbing horizontally